Things to Do in Damascus

Old City souks at dawn

The covered markets wake up slowly - first the metal workers light their fires, then the spice merchants unwrap saffron and cumin that makes you sneeze. You'll walk past bolts of silk that catch the early light and hear the slap of dough as bakers prepare morning flatbread. By 8am the alleys fill with delivery boys balancing trays of tea above their heads.

Umayyad Mosque courtyard

Your bare feet touch cool marble as you enter, and the sound of hundreds of pigeons wings creates its own breeze. Inside, the massive prayer hall smells of old books and rose water, while Byzantine mosaics of great destination shimmer gold and green in the filtered light. Locals will point out the shrine where John the Baptist's head rests - everyone whispers here, even the children.

Mount Qasioun sunset

The taxi drops you at a viewpoint where families have spread blankets and brought thermoses of tea. As the sun drops, Damascus spreads below like a carpet of amber lights, and you can smell charcoal from rooftop grills mixing with pine from the mountain. The call to prayer rises from hundreds of minarets at once, creating an echo that seems to bounce off the surrounding mountains.

Azem Palace courtyards

This 18th-century governor's palace hides behind plain walls. But inside you'll find trickling fountains and orange trees that perfume the air. The black-and-white stone work creates optical illusions as you walk, and upstairs rooms display Damascene crafts - you'll see the same mother-of-pearl inlay techniques used in the souks below. Windows frame views of the Old City like living postcards.

Straight Street evening stroll

Biblical Straight Street transforms at dusk when heat gives way to cool breezes that smell of nargileh smoke and roasting nuts. You'll pass bars where young Damascenes drink Arak that clouds white when water hits it, and old pharmacies with brass scales still measuring herbs. The stone pavement has been worn smooth by 3,000 years of footsteps - smooth in places, so watch your step.

Bab Touma - Christian Quarter guesthouses in 300-year-old buildings with courtyard fountains

Al-Amara - budget-friendly area near the spice souk, morning calls to prayer included

Al-Maliki - mid-range hotels on the modern side, walking distance to Old City gates

Al-Salihiyah - uphill neighborhood with rooftop views, cooler evening breezes

Al-Mazzeh - embassy district, more international restaurants but farther from sights

Old City itself - a handful of restored courtyard houses, book well ahead